Frequently asked questions
Our Cabinets
It depends on the line. Our Shaker doors and drawer fronts are 3/4″ full overlay, either painted high-density fiberboard or stained solid birch with veneered MDF center panels. The cabinet boxes are 1/2″ cabinet-grade plywood with a natural clear-coat interior and metal L-bracket reinforcement on the base cabinets. Drawer boxes are 5/8″ edge-jointed solid rubberwood with dovetail construction, on full-extension, under-mount, soft-close steel glides. Shelves are cabinet-grade plywood on metal shelf rests.
Our European Frameless line is built on 18mm engineered furniture board, finished with textured melamine laminate and 1.3mm PVC edge banding in a matching color. It uses 3/4″ premium plywood side panels and shelves, 5/8″ plywood drawer bottoms and backs, metal drawer boxes, and a Confirmat connecting system that makes assembly faster and the finished cabinet more rigid. Every door in the line runs on 6-way adjustable soft-close hinges.
The door surface in that line depends on the finish, and the split is between the wood tones and the solid colors.
Natural Oak and Walnut are TFL — thermally fused laminate, the material most people still call melamine. It is what carries the wood grain and the texture you can feel in the surface.
Glossy White, Matte White and Matte Black are PET doors, built on an MDF core with laser-applied edge banding. PET is a considerably thicker surface than a laminate paper and it has some give to it, which is why it wraps a door edge cleanly instead of cracking at the fold. The laser edge banding leaves no visible glue line along the edge of the door, and on a flat slab door in a solid color that edge is the first thing the eye catches.
Our closet line is built on 3/4-inch engineered furniture board with a TFL surface, including the drawer boxes, on soft-closing glides.
Parts of them are, and we would rather tell you exactly which parts than give you a one-word answer.
In our Shaker line, the drawer boxes are solid rubberwood with dovetail joints, and the stained doors are solid birch with a veneered MDF center panel. The cabinet boxes are 1/2″ cabinet-grade plywood, not particleboard with a veneer face. Painted Shaker doors are high-density fiberboard, which holds a painted finish more evenly than solid wood does and will not telegraph a joint line through the paint as the seasons change.
Our European Frameless line and our closet line are built on engineered furniture board rather than solid lumber, surfaced in melamine or PET depending on the finish. That is the standard construction for frameless European cabinetry and for modular closet systems, and it is deliberate rather than a cost cut. A frameless cabinet has no face frame holding the box square, and a closet unit is a tall panel carrying weight across its whole height. Both need a panel that will not move with the seasons, and engineered board holds its dimensions where solid lumber expands and contracts.
The short version: every line is built from cabinet-grade material throughout, and no line is a particleboard box with a thin veneer front. Ask your sales rep which material is used where on the specific cabinets you are pricing and you will get the same breakdown printed above.


Yes, on both cabinet lines.
Our custom Shaker program will match any Sherwin-Williams paint color. You pick the color, we finish the doors and drawer fronts to it, and the rest of the cabinet is built to the same Shaker specification as our in-stock colors.
Our Custom European line runs a separate palette of more than fifty frameless finishes, covering wood tones from honey oak through walnut and ash, plus flat colors from polar white and black through royal blue, coral and cajun red. Because both programs change as new colors come in and older ones retire, call your Modernform sales rep for the current list before you specify a color on a job.
Custom-finished doors and drawers are painted for us by The Cabinet Finishers and carry their own separate paint warranty, which is covered in the Warranty section below.
Most orders are ready to ship in three to five business days, because you are waiting on our warehouse rather than on a factory build queue. We hold our own inventory in Carrollton rather than ordering product after you pay for it, and that is the whole reason the timeline works the way it does.
Custom orders are different, because the doors are finished after you order rather than pulled off a rack. Most custom orders are completed in less than four weeks.
Beyond that, actual delivery depends on the size of the order, which finishes you selected, and what is on the racks the day you call. Call the showroom at (469) 521-9096 and we will tell you what is in stock right now and what that means for your delivery window, rather than a general estimate that may not match your order.
Yes. Modernform’s basic design service, including 3D renderings, is free to account holders and their clients, and in-person design sessions at our Carrollton showroom are by appointment.
A few things worth knowing before you book. Call your sales rep to schedule rather than walking in. On a contractor’s project, the contractor needs to be at the appointment, and the measurements have to come from the contractor. Our designers do not travel to job sites to take measurements; that sits with whoever is installing. Emailed design requests run a three to five day lead time, longer in busy seasons.
Bring complete measurements, because we cannot start a design without them. For a kitchen that means room dimensions, window and door locations, and where the appliances and plumbing land. For a closet, the width, depth and ceiling height plus a rough inventory of what actually has to fit inside, since that decides how much of the closet goes to hanging space, drawers and shelving.
Pricing comes from your sales rep rather than the designer, and not every designer can quote. If you are a dealer or contractor, we never release pricing to your clients. Full measurements and layouts that do not end up in a cabinet order may carry a $250 premium design fee, with a payment method held on file; where it applies, that fee is credited toward the order when one follows.
Designs are recommendations based on what you tell us, and the renderings are an artistic impression rather than an exact preview of the finished kitchen. Review the quote before you buy — once a design is converted to a sales order, you are confirming everything on it.
Two different questions, and it is worth separating them.
Shaker and Slim Shaker are the same cabinet. The only difference is the width of the door panel frame on the front. Standard Shaker has a wider frame around the recessed center panel; Slim Shaker has a narrower one. The thinner frame reads as more contemporary, and in a smaller kitchen it makes a long run of doors feel less heavy. Everything behind the door is identical. Shaker comes in seven in-stock colors, Slim Shaker in Slim Dove White and Slim Sage Green.
Shaker versus European is a real structural difference, not a style preference. A Shaker cabinet is a framed cabinet: there is a face frame behind the door holding the box square. European frameless has no framing behind it at all. That is what produces the seamless look — the doors sit flush across the front with almost no gap between them, and there is no frame edge interrupting the run. It also means more usable space inside the box and wider drawer openings, because the frame is not taking up the opening.
If you are deciding between them, the showroom is worth the trip. The difference between a standard Shaker frame and a slim one is a fraction of an inch on paper and completely obvious in person.
Yes. Bathroom vanities are the same cabinetry we use everywhere else, in the same lines and finishes, so a bathroom can be finished to match the kitchen rather than sourced separately and hoping the whites agree.
They are priced the same way as everything else we sell, at wholesale, with no minimum order. Call (469) 521-9096 with the vanity opening width and whether you need a single or double bowl, and we will tell you what is in stock.


No, and that is deliberate. We do not supply decorative hardware, and you are free to use whatever pulls and knobs you want.
Hardware is where a kitchen stops looking like a catalog and starts looking like yours, and it is also the cheapest thing in the room to change your mind about. Tying it to the cabinet order means paying our markup on somebody else’s choice.
What does come with the cabinets is the working hardware: 6-way adjustable soft-close hinges, and full-extension, under-mount, soft-close drawer glides. Those are part of the cabinet, not an upgrade.
Warm water, a little mild dish soap, a soft cloth, and dry it straight away. That handles almost everything, on every line we sell.
The one rule that matters more than any product is drying. Our European and closet panels are engineered board with a melamine or PET surface, and our Shaker boxes are plywood with painted or stained fronts. All of them shrug off a wet wipe and none of them like standing water. Moisture that sits — in a seam, at a panel edge, along the bottom of a door under a dish towel — is what eventually causes damage, and it is the single most common source of problems we see. Wipe spills when they happen rather than at the end of the day, and never drape a wet towel over the door under the sink.
Steam deserves the same caution. Point a kettle, an air fryer or a dishwasher door away from a cabinet edge rather than straight at it, and do not use a steam cleaner on cabinetry at all.
What to keep away from the finish: abrasive cleaners, scouring pads and powdered cleanser; bleach and ammonia-based multipurpose sprays; solvents like acetone, lacquer thinner and turpentine; oven cleaner; and wax or silicone furniture polish, which builds up over time and is difficult to reverse. Skip dish cloths too — they usually carry grease or detergent residue from the sink. A clean cotton cloth or a microfiber is better.
For a mark that does not come off with soap and water, call us before you reach for something stronger. The right next step depends on which line and which finish, and the wrong solvent will take the sheen off permanently.
One more thing, because it catches people out: if you run a self-cleaning oven cycle, take off the cabinet doors and drawers immediately beside it first. That cycle puts out far more heat than normal cooking, and it is enough to damage an adjacent door.
Yes, and your first set is free — both the samples and the shipping. On a second sample request the samples are still free, but the shipping is charged.
Finishes are genuinely hard to judge on a screen. Monitor calibration, the light in the room, and the color of your floors and countertops all change how a door reads once it is actually on the wall. A sample in your own kitchen, looked at in morning light and again under the lights you use at night, settles the question in a way a photograph cannot.
Call (469) 521-9096 and tell us which finishes you are weighing up. If you are anywhere near Dallas–Fort Worth, the Carrollton showroom has the full range on display, which is faster still.
Yes. The NKBA, HBA, KCMA and CARB2 credentials shown on our site are current and verifiable.
CARB2 is the one worth understanding, because it is about what is in your house rather than a trade membership. It is the California Air Resources Board standard limiting formaldehyde emissions from composite wood panels — the strictest such standard in the country, and the one that applies to the engineered board in our European and closet lines. Panels meeting it are what you want in a bedroom closet or a kitchen your family stands in every day.
Our Closets
RTA means ready-to-assemble. The closet units ship flat-packed in cartons and are put together and mounted on site, rather than arriving as finished built boxes. It is the same material and the same construction as a pre-assembled system, with the assembly step moved to your end, and that later assembly step is part of what keeps the price down.
For closets in particular that works in your favor. Closets are usually upstairs, down a hallway and through a door frame, and a pre-assembled closet tower is an awkward object to get into the room it is supposed to live in. Flat cartons go up a staircase without a fight and stage in a corner while the rest of the room gets finished.
Three-quarter-inch engineered furniture board panels with a TFL surface — thermally fused laminate, what most people still call melamine. The drawer boxes are engineered board as well, running on soft-closing glides.
That is the standard construction for modular closet systems, and it is the right material for the job rather than a compromise. A closet unit is a tall panel carrying weight across its full height, and it needs to hold its shape. Engineered board stays dimensionally stable where solid lumber expands and contracts with every change in humidity — which matters in a closet backing onto a bathroom wall, or in any room that goes through a Texas summer and then a Texas winter. The melamine surface is sealed, so it wipes clean and does not mark the way an open wood finish does.
How the panels are used matters as much as what they are. Our closet units are built as cabinet boxes rather than shelves on brackets, so every shelf lands on supports in the side panels and the load travels down through the unit instead of across an unsupported span. That is the difference between a closet that still looks right in ten years and a shelf with a visible bow in the middle of it. Wire shelving has the opposite problem — it creases folded clothes over the wires and lets stacks tip through the gaps.


Forty-two inches. That is our maximum, and it is why we do not build a closet unit wider than it.
Our widest stock unit is 36 inches, and the shelf in it is supported on both sides by the unit’s own panels rather than hanging off the back wall. That is the whole reason the span holds. Go wider than 42 inches and a 3/4-inch shelf will bow under normal closet loading no matter what it is made of — at that point you need a back rail drilled into the wall with an additional shelf support behind it to carry the middle.
For most closets this never comes up, because the layout is built from units rather than from one long shelf. It is worth knowing if you are comparing us against a system that runs a single shelf wall to wall, which is the arrangement that produces the sagging shelf full of folded sweaters that everyone recognizes.
They stand on their own, and they should still be anchored to the wall.
The units are freestanding cabinet boxes with a toe kick — they do not need the wall to hold them up. But a tall unit loaded unevenly can tip, so we mount them. Treat it the same way you would a bookcase or a dresser in a bedroom: it stands fine until somebody pulls a full drawer out at the top.
If you are in a rental and worried about the wall, that is a conversation worth having with your installer before assembly rather than after.


Closet base units start at $665 for a 15″ wide by 84″ tall unit in the 15 5/8″ depth, and run to $1,293 for a 36″ wide unit in the 24″ depth. The same units with integrated LED lighting run from $1,098 to $1,726. Corner units are $1,516 and $1,814 without lighting. Stackable top units, which sit on top of a base unit to reach a nine-foot ceiling, start at $254.
Those are published list prices for individual units, not a finished closet. What a whole closet costs depends on how many units the wall takes and what goes inside them, because shelves, drawers, hanging rails, racks and lighting are priced separately and added to the units you choose. Call the showroom with the room’s width, depth and ceiling height and we will build the unit list and give you the real number for that closet.
Every closet unit is 84″ tall and comes in six widths: 15″, 18″, 21″, 24″, 30″ and 36″.
There are two depths. The 15 5/8″ depth is the shallower unit and suits a reach-in closet or a run along a wall where floor space is tight. The 24″ depth is the deeper unit, which gives you more shelf and drawer capacity and is the usual choice for a walk-in. Corner units come in 30″ and 36″ widths at a 15″ depth, for turning a corner in a walk-in without leaving dead space behind the unit.
Widths combine, so a 96″ wall can be filled several different ways depending on where you want the drawers and the hanging sections to land.
Yes. The base units are 84″ tall, and we make stackable units 21″ tall in every matching width that sit directly on top of a base unit of the same width. That gets you to 105″ of built height, and fillers are used to close out the remaining space to the ceiling.
Fillers come 96″ long in 3″ and 6″ widths and are also what you use to close a gap at the end of a run or against an out-of-square wall, which is most walls in a real house.
Every closet base unit includes one adjustable shelf and the basic hardware. Hanging rails, additional shelves and drawers are added separately, so you configure each unit for what actually goes in it rather than paying for a fixed kit.
Hanging rails are sold separately, not included in the basic hardware. They come in every unit width.
Drawers come in two front heights, a 6 5/16″ drawer and a 12 5/8″ drawer, in every unit width, and each one ships as a complete set with the box and the slides. Extra shelves are 3/4″ thick and sized to the unit width and depth. The 30″ and 36″ wide units can also take functional hardware that the narrower units cannot, which is worth knowing before you finalize a layout.
Quite a lot, and most of it is the difference between a closet that holds clothes and a closet that is actually organized.
We stock soft-close tie racks and trouser racks, jewelry accessory shelves, slide-out wire baskets, a slide-out mirror on a mounting rack, and slanted shoe shelves with a front retaining bar. Most of these are built for the 30″ and 36″ wide units, so if you want them, plan a wide section into the layout before you order. Glass doors with an aluminum frame are available at 81″ tall in 12″, 15″, 18″ and 21″ widths, including hinges, for the sections you want closed off and still visible.
Ask your sales rep about the full accessory range when you price the closet, since not every item fits every unit width and depth.
Yes, two ways.
You can order a closet base unit with LED lighting built in, which comes with its own 36W transformer, one per closet unit. Or you can add lighting to an existing unit with a touch-switch shelf, which is a standard shelf with a touch switch and a light wire duct built into it, available in both depths and every width. A joint control box links multiple units together on one run.
Lighting is worth more in a closet than it sounds like it should be. Most closets have one ceiling fixture positioned so your own body blocks it the moment you step in front of the shelves you are trying to see. Lighting built into the system puts light on the clothes instead of on the back of your head, and in a closet with no window that is the difference between recognizing a navy jacket and carrying it to a window.
Each unit is a six-step assembly using a dowel and cam lock system, with basic hand tools.
You install the dowels and cam lock screws on the left and right side panels, insert the top and bottom panels and lock them tight, insert the back panel, close it with the left panel, drive six fixing nails into the back, then stand the unit up and install the shelf on its supports. Each unit ships in three cartons, with the side panels in one, the top and bottom panels, shelf, reinforced rails, toe kick and hardware in the second, and the back panel in the third. Printed assembly instructions for every unit are in our catalog.
A homeowner doing one closet can assemble it over a weekend. A crew running units does it in an afternoon.
If you would rather not, we can refer you to an installer. We do not install ourselves — we are the manufacturer, and we would rather point you to someone who does this every day than pretend otherwise. Ask when you call and we will pass along a name.
Most closet orders are ready to ship in three to five business days, the same as our cabinets, because the units are held in stock in Carrollton rather than built after you order.
Custom painted orders are the exception and run three to four weeks, since the finish work happens after the order is placed. If your project has a date attached to it, say so on the first call and we will tell you honestly whether it fits.
Hanging capacity and floor space, mostly.
The 15 5/8″ depth is shallower than a standard reach-in closet, which means it can run along a bedroom wall without a closet at all, or fit into a reach-in without crowding the door. It holds shirts, folded goods and most hanging clothes comfortably.
The 24″ depth matches a standard closet depth and gives you deeper shelves, deeper drawers and more room for bulkier hanging items like coats. In a walk-in it is usually the right call. The accessories are depth-specific, so racks, baskets and shelves are ordered to match the depth of the unit they go into rather than being interchangeable.
No. There is no dealer account, no business license requirement and no minimum order. A single reach-in closet is a completely normal order here.
Pricing runs on five volume levels, so a larger order buys at a better number — but that follows the size of the order rather than who is placing it. A homeowner and a dealer buying the same quantity buy at the same level.
Builders, remodelers and property managers ordering on a repeat basis can set up through our dealer program when a standing supply relationship suits how they work.
Yes. Our closet products carry the same Limited Lifetime Warranty as our cabinet lines, on the same terms. The Warranty section below covers how it works and how to file a claim.
At our showroom, 1520 Luna Rd, Suite 140, Carrollton, TX 75006, in the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex. Closet finishes are worth seeing in person because closet lighting is unforgiving. A warm oak that looks right in a photograph can read completely differently under a single bulb in a room with no window.
We stock four closet finishes: Kansas Oak, the deeper and warmer wood tone; Natural Oak, the lighter and more open grain; Winter Oak, the palest of the three oaks; and Premium White, the clean surface that keeps a narrow reach-in from feeling closed in. If you are outside DFW, the same units ship flat-packed anywhere in the country from the same inventory at the same price.
Warranty
A Limited Lifetime Warranty, on all in-stock and current product lines. As the manufacturer, we stand behind it ourselves, including the parts, the processing and the decision to repair or replace.
For the first year after your purchase date, we warrant that your cabinetry, door hinges and drawer glides are free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use, and we process first-year claims immediately. Starting in year two, coverage automatically extends to a Lifetime Warranty on the same terms, for as long as the product remains part of our current lineup and is not discontinued. Claims from year two onward take a six to twelve week lead time to process.
The warranty is non-transferable and applies only to products used for single-family, owner-occupied residential purposes.
To file a Modernform warranty claim, contact your sales rep or email us with your invoice number, a description of the problem and photographs, and we will send you the right Warranty Claim Form. Our warranty manager replies within 48 hours of your email. How fast you need to act depends on what went wrong.
Something wrong with the order as it arrived — damage, a shortage, the wrong item — is a 48-hour claim. Email sales@modernformcabinets.com within 48 hours of receiving the order and ask for the Warranty Claim Form.
A defect that shows up later under normal use is a Limited Lifetime Warranty claim, and there is no 48-hour clock on it. A hinge that fails in year three is covered on the terms above, not on the delivery window. First-year claims are processed immediately, and claims from year two onward take six to twelve weeks.
There is no form to download. Contact your sales rep, or email warranty@modernformcabinets.com, and we will send you the right form for the claim you are making. You will need your proof of purchase, a detailed description, and photographs. Once we have reviewed everything we will let you know our decision to repair or replace.
Do not proceed with any repair, replacement or return before you have our written approval. Once a claim is approved we cover all shipping and handling on our end. Returning the defective product is required to receive a replacement, and that return is at the customer’s expense. We reserve the right to inspect any part claimed defective.
The warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, or damage caused by accidents, misuse, improper installation, improper storage, modification, or exposure to extreme temperature or moisture levels. It also does not cover the cost of installation, adjustment, removal, transportation, or any damage that follows from the defect, regardless of who performed the work.
Replacement parts are subject to stock availability and may differ slightly from the originals.
Wood is a natural material, and no two trees, or two pieces of wood, are exactly alike. Variation in grain and color is part of that rather than an imperfection, and newly produced cabinets will never match the exact tone of an older sample or an aged cabinet. Light, moisture, cleaners and smoke can darken or mellow the wood color over time. That natural aging, along with the wood’s inherent grain and color variation, is not covered.
Wood also expands and contracts with humidity and temperature, year after year. Because of that, door warping of less than 1/4″ is not considered a defect. If a door warps 1/4″ or more, we ask that you let it hang for two full seasons before requesting a replacement, since doors typically return to flat once they have acclimated. Before requesting a replacement for a warped door, confirm it is installed properly and the hinges are adjusted correctly.
Some lines carry a hand-applied glazed finish. Because it is applied by hand, expect natural variation from door to door, and drips or runs are part of the finish rather than a defect. Painted surfaces may also show small fractures in the finish at the joints over time. That is normal and not a defect either.
No. The warranty covers the original purchaser only and does not transfer. If you buy a house with our cabinets already in it, the warranty does not come with them.
It applies to products used for single-family, owner-occupied residential purposes, and a copy of the original purchaser’s dated receipt must be submitted with any claim.
No. Coverage is for the original purchaser and for single-family, owner-occupied residential use. Cabinets going into a rental unit, an apartment building or a commercial project fall outside it.
We would rather say that plainly here than have it discovered during a claim. If you are buying for multi-family or commercial work, price the job on that basis and talk to your sales rep about what support looks like for those orders.
Report damage within 48 hours of receiving your order and we will make it right with a replacement or the cost of the damage. Email sales@modernformcabinets.com with photographs and your invoice number and ask for a Warranty Claim Form. Our warranty manager replies within 48 hours.
That window is short on purpose, so inspect the delivery when it arrives rather than when you get to that part of the job. Open the cartons, check the panels and doors, and photograph anything that looks wrong before it goes anywhere. Freight damage is usually obvious the moment the packaging is off and close to impossible to prove three weeks later.
If you are picking up rather than taking delivery, check everything at the dock before you leave. Same for a delivery — decline anything that is not on your invoice rather than accepting it and sorting it out afterwards.
The same 48-hour window applies to missing or backordered items, and we prepay the shipping on anything backordered.
Not by the same warranty. Custom-painted cabinets are finished for us by The Cabinet Finishers, and their warranty covers the paint finish specifically, separately from our Limited Lifetime Warranty on the cabinet itself.
The Cabinet Finishers warrants painted doors and drawers against cracking and chipping for one year from the date of your order, to the original buyer. It does not cover the labor to remove or reinstall an item, shipping or transportation, or any installed face frame, panel or item that cannot be returned to the facility for repair.
There is one thing worth knowing about painted wood before you order it. Paint applied over wood made of multiple joined pieces can develop small cracks at the seams as the wood expands and contracts, especially on mitered joints, glued-up door panel seams and face frame joints. Prolonged exposure to water, which is common around sink cabinets and bathroom vanities, and steam from appliances, can weaken a painted finish over time. Those are normal characteristics of painted cabinetry rather than defects, and they are not covered for replacement.
For Dealers
To become a Modernform dealer, submit the short form on our Become a Dealer page, then complete the four-page Modernform Account Application your sales rep sends you. We review the web form and contact you, typically within one to two business days.
The web form asks for your name, business email, phone number, company name and business type, plus the cabinet brands you currently carry and roughly how many projects you run a month.
The Account Application covers your legal business name, company and billing address, business start-up year, business type, two trade references, and the purchasing agents allowed to order on the account. You return it to your rep with sales@modernformcabinets.com copied, along with the documents in the next answer and a signed acceptance of our Ordering Policy.
If you would rather start with a conversation than a form, call the showroom at (469) 521-9096.
To open a Modernform dealer account you need a federal EIN, two trade references and a signed acceptance of our Ordering Policy. Sole proprietors without an EIN provide a completed IRS Form W-9 plus supporting documentation, such as a contractor’s license or a local or state permit.
There is no minimum project volume and no revenue threshold — we are not screening you on size. What we do need is proof that you are an operating business. Trade references are companies you currently buy from.
Please do not write a Social Security number on the application or send one by email. If you are submitting a W-9, hand it to your sales rep in person or ask your rep for a secure way to send it.
Optional, but worth including: a copy of your state sales tax license or resale certificate if you want tax-exempt orders — without one, sales tax is collected on your orders — plus a driver’s license and a business card.
Any business that buys cabinetry for its own projects or clients qualifies: cabinet dealers, distributors, kitchen and bath showrooms, contractors, remodelers, builders and developers, architects and interior designers. We also supply apartment and commercial projects nationwide.


No. There is no minimum order size, no dealer account requirement and no business license requirement. Anyone can buy from us, and a homeowner doing one kitchen is a completely normal order.
What does change with volume is the price. We run five price levels set by how much you purchase, so a larger order buys at a better number than a small one. That is true whether you are a dealer or a walk-in — the level follows the volume, not the account type. A homeowner doing one kitchen and a dealer doing one kitchen are at the same level.
The dealer program exists for buyers who want a standing supply relationship across projects rather than ordering job to job. It is an option, not a gate.
It depends on volume rather than on the word “dealer.”
We run five price levels, and which one you buy at is set by how much you purchase. The more you buy, the better the price. That applies to whoever is doing the buying — a dealer placing one kitchen and a walk-in customer placing one kitchen are at the same level, and a dealer running half a million dollars a year is not.
So the honest framing is that we price by volume, not by title. Opening a dealer account does not by itself move you to a better number; buying more does. Ask your sales rep which level your typical order lands in, and what the next one up takes.
Support for selling, mainly — the things you need to put our product in front of your own customers.
Free samples, and free sample door racks so you can show the range properly instead of passing around loose doors. If you want a full display in your showroom, you buy it from us and we credit the cost back to you across your next four orders. Run the business you were going to run anyway and the display effectively pays for itself.
We also do not release pricing to your clients. Your customer deals with you on price, not with us — we will quote you, and what you quote them is your business. For anyone whose margin is the business, that matters more than a sample rack.
Beyond that, you get a standing account and a sales rep who knows your projects, rather than starting the conversation over every time you order.
Cash or check on any order. Beyond that, you can submit a credit application, and whether you qualify for net terms — and at what length — depends on what comes back from it.
Ask your sales rep to send the credit application when you set up the account. It is worth doing before you need it rather than in the middle of a job.
Third-party financing through Synchrony is available to retail customers rather than to dealer accounts — see the financing answer in the Ordering section, because the liability on it matters if you are buying on a client’s behalf.
Yes. Dealers are not limited to in-stock colors — the full custom program is open to you, including any Sherwin-Williams color on the Shaker line and the custom European palette.
That is usually the difference between quoting a job and winning it. A client who has already picked a color from somewhere else does not have to be talked out of it.
No. We do not grant exclusive territories, and we would rather say that plainly than leave it vague in a conversation where it matters.
What that means in practice is that the dealer relationship is worth what you make of it rather than what a map says. Nobody is handed a region and nobody is locked out of one.
Yes. We supply apartment and commercial projects nationwide, alongside our contractor and dealer business, and we hold our inventory in the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex rather than ordering it after the job is awarded.
For a multi-unit job, call (469) 521-9096 with the unit count, the layouts and your schedule, and we will work out what is on the racks now, what a full project draw looks like, and how it phases against your construction timeline.
Everything ships from our warehouse and showroom at 1520 Luna Rd, Suite 140, Carrollton, TX 75006, and we ship nationwide.
Because our cabinets and closets are ready-to-assemble, they ship flat-packed, which is denser freight than pre-assembled cabinets. A full project’s worth of cabinetry takes up less truck space and stores more easily on a job site.
There is no minimum order for freight. Any size order can ship, whether it is one closet unit or a full multi-unit job.
If part of your order goes on backorder, we prepay the shipping on the backordered portion. You do not pay freight twice because we were short.
We should also be straight about freight cost: we do not offer free freight, and there is no order size that unlocks it. Freight is quoted on your order and your address. We would rather quote it honestly than build it into the product price and call it free, which is what a free-freight threshold actually is.
Ordering, Delivery, and Returns
Sometimes, and the terms are worth reading before you order rather than after.
Returns have to be approved by us, and an approved return carries a 25% restocking fee. To be eligible you must start a Warranty Claim Form or a Return Authorization Form within two business days of receiving your order, the cabinets and accessories have to be in the same condition you received them and in the original packaging, and you need the receipt or sales order as proof of purchase. Nothing is accepted more than 45 days after the invoice date.
Two hard exclusions. There are no returns on assembled items, and there are no returns on items ordered in error by the account holder. If you ordered the wrong size, that one is on you — which is exactly why it is worth going through the estimate line by line before it becomes an invoice.
Where it is our mistake, it works differently. An unapproved line item we added, a wrong color, a damaged cabinet, or an assembled item delivered incorrectly — those qualify for exchange rather than sitting under the return rules. Email sales@modernformcabinets.com.
Yes, up until two business days before the “Ready By” date on your invoice.
To cancel, email your sales rep or come into the showroom. Orders cannot be changed or cancelled within two business days of the Ready By date on the invoice. Orders already out for delivery cannot be edited within 48 hours of the scheduled delivery date, and fees may apply.
Custom painted orders cannot be cancelled at all. Once the finish work starts, those doors exist in your color and nobody else’s.
The practical advice is the same as with returns: check the estimate carefully and tell your sales rep about changes before it is converted to an invoice. Once you approve an order and it converts, you are confirming the contents of that invoice.
Unless you are set up tax-exempt with us, yes. Where sales tax applies it is calculated at the bottom of your sales order.
To be exempt we need a copy of your resale license or state sales tax license plus photo ID. Scan those to your sales rep and we will put them on file, and it is worth doing when you open the account rather than in the middle of a job.
Yes. Financing may be available to qualifying retail customers through Synchrony. All financing is subject to credit approval, and available promotions, interest rates, minimum purchase requirements, and repayment terms may vary.
This financing option is intended for retail customers rather than dealer or commercial accounts. Ask your Modernform sales representative about current offers and application instructions. Synchrony makes all approval decisions and determines the final account terms.
Sign in at the front office with the receptionist and have three things ready: your invoice number, your company name, and your sales rep’s name. Your invoice number is your order number.
The receptionist directs you to a dock door. Wait times vary, so leave some room in your schedule. Bring a pen and paper.
Check everything the warehouse hands you against your invoice before you leave. If a box looks damaged, open it and check what is inside rather than discovering it at the job site. The same goes for a delivery — decline anything that is not on your invoice instead of accepting it and sorting it out later.

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